Ultra Small Form Factor Emulation PC Build – Emulate Everything!

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Ultra Small Form Factor Emulation PC Build – Emulate Everything! In this video, I build a super small form factor Mini itx Ryzen 3 2200g APU powered Emulation …

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45 thoughts on “Ultra Small Form Factor Emulation PC Build – Emulate Everything!

  • September 14, 2018 at 12:08 pm
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    How were the temperatures? and did you have to do a bios update with the 2200g?

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  • September 14, 2018 at 12:08 pm
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    the build looks great! one suggestion, the cpu cooler currently exhausts hot air right into the ram sticks, would cool better if you exhausted the other way.

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  • September 14, 2018 at 12:08 pm
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    Is there a build video based around that mini ITX silverstone case/build, I’m looking into building something like this but with a full power supply and maybe some upgradeability? Can’t seem to find it

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  • September 14, 2018 at 12:08 pm
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    Many MiniITX boards works with 12V only, when using the CPU power connector. Might be worth checking, as this would take that ATX 165W DC-DC converter out of the equation

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  • September 14, 2018 at 12:08 pm
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    Looks like PicoPSUs have come down in price since the last time I bought one (7 years ago), but after you factor in the 12V PSU they still don't fall into the "cheap" category.

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  • September 14, 2018 at 12:08 pm
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    excuse me for asking a simple question (first time building a pc) what runs the graphics?

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  • September 14, 2018 at 12:08 pm
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    What if you flip the cpu fan and have it blow upwards out of the case? Might have better temps

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  • September 14, 2018 at 12:08 pm
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    That's the moment you wanna build your own tiny arcade machine.

    But you have no idea what just happened:D.

    ^^

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  • September 14, 2018 at 12:08 pm
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    To anyone who has this rig or very similar, do you still make adjustments in the settings for each individual game on the Dolphin for each Wii and gamecube game? Like lowering or raising the clock speed depending on the game. Or do they all run perfectly without having to mess with the settings, since this rig is powerful.

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  • September 14, 2018 at 12:08 pm
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    I am going to put this into a modded Dreamcast case and name it the DreamcasTwo =)

    I actually already have the 2200G, RAM, 270GB m.2 SSD, and Dreamcast shell (an old Broken DC I gutted) I just need this little PSU and tiny little motherboard, should all fit just fine!!

    BTW I have found that you can overclock the Ryzen 2200G on the stock cooler, I got mine to 3.8GHz on the CPU side but haven't tried overclocking the GPU side as I only have 2400MHz memory. Still plenty fast and surprised me quite a bit!

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  • September 14, 2018 at 12:08 pm
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    What CPU cooler are using to keep the height so low?

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  • September 14, 2018 at 12:08 pm
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    AMD's RYZEN CPUs are super impressive. I've always favored AMD over Intel mostly due to price and I've never had any bad experiences with AMD CPUs (and I've been building them since the mid 90's). I'll always give Intel credit where it's due but AMD is good with me.

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  • September 14, 2018 at 12:08 pm
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    I have almost the same setup but inside of a "inwin chopin" case. One thing that I you'll realize is that you can put this PC in a small laptop backpack with all cables plus controllers and still have room for the laptop… Makes a great gaming PC that you can take with you.

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  • September 14, 2018 at 12:08 pm
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    well, another approach would be to buy a refurbished NUC Skull Canyon would be even smaller, would say the power would be even higher, the noise thou as well, the FAN on the NUC is quite loud but as a emulator it would be a killer

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  • September 14, 2018 at 12:08 pm
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    I used to love Mini-ITX, but prices are getting silly. You'd think having less material in the components would make it cheaper. I went back to Micro-ATX for my most recent build (AM4); prices were much closer to sane.

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  • September 14, 2018 at 12:08 pm
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    please can you tell me the name of the ps2 emulador?

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  • September 14, 2018 at 12:08 pm
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    Everyone who test games test the story mode like with gta you should test online mode thats what pc gamers are going to play.

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  • September 14, 2018 at 12:08 pm
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    @ETA PRIME As long as the powering the pico can handle the wattage like a 240w brick(I'm currently using one) then it should be fine if you want to use more power hungry components

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  • September 14, 2018 at 12:08 pm
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    Wow, an onBoard graphics card running GTA V at 60fps its a big deal.

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  • September 14, 2018 at 12:08 pm
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    I have a Windows 7 pc from 2010 with a Pentium 4 and a 160gb HD. I want to make my games portable but I want my system or front-end actually installed on the PC. What do you think I should use and do you have an existing tutorial for said recommendation? Thank you

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  • September 14, 2018 at 12:08 pm
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    I get a little triggered when people say "pull some hot air out", when referring to fans. Functionally, thermally, it doesn't matter whether your fans are pushing air into a case or pulling it out, it just runs counter to my preference to pull air rather than push it. Some advice for system builders, though, pick one direction for all of them, and make sure you have some passive vents, or you'll just create eddy currents. Little pockets of trapped spinning air because a stronger current is passing them by. My preference, and you'll get a lot of strong adherents to this, and to the opposite, so don't take it as gospel, just hear it out, is to have all fans blowing in. The logic is, unless your PC case is hermetically sealed, air will ALWAYS find a way out, so I consider it more important to get cool air in, and let the hot air sort itself out. The one advantage to this is dust. If you create a negative pressure zone inside your case by pulling air out, it's going to pull in all of the dust around it. If the case pressure is positive, then dust will be mostly blown out. One thing I can't stress enough, though, whether you push or pull with your fans, is to make sure you have either passive input for pulling fans, or passive exhaust for pushing fans. If you have one fan pushing and one fan pulling, you're not necessarily moving any more air, and you're just creating a path from input to output that cuts a lot of the hot stuff out, so you let the heat sit over some components. If your air in or out is passive, then your fan will either push air in, and fill the case, forcing it out any gaps it can find, or create a low pressure zone near the fan that pulls all air in the case toward it from all directions.

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  • September 14, 2018 at 12:08 pm
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    I hate how the 'Micro-ATX' power supply never really caught on. I would build a system around that PSU size but nobody makes a good one. It's either giant ATX psu or stupidly small Pico-ITX.. nothing decent in between.

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  • September 14, 2018 at 12:08 pm
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    I'm also interested in where the 2.5 inch HDD goes in the case for this build? Also, what is the size of the plug for the 12 volt brick that plugs into the back of the case? Any clarification will be appreciated! Thank you!

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  • September 14, 2018 at 12:08 pm
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    i like it but i think i would get a slightly bigger case
    just for ease of use

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  • September 14, 2018 at 12:08 pm
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    ETA, do you use this at a tv? The only thing I miss is a dvd drive (I even think the steammachine should have had one), for if i'm gaming on a living room, eventually I'll want to watch some movies on it. (I feel the sff or usff case from lenovo or hp would do quite the job, what do you think?)

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  • September 14, 2018 at 12:08 pm
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    is there a distance between the fan and the top of the case?
    in this case it might improve cooling to make a small duct around the fan so the fan draws only ambient air.
    some sticky tape should do at the seemingly low distance.
    I would also try covering the whole top with tape(exept for the place where the cpu-fan draws in the air) to stop the air from flowing in circles.
    as this would neither cost much money nor much time it is at least worth a try.

    Reply

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